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Benjamin on Fashion

By (author) Philipp Ekardt

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Benjamin on Fashion reconstructs and redefines Walter Benjaminâ€™s complex, fragmentary and yet influential fashion theory that he developed in the Arcades Project (1927-1940) and beyond, while situating it within the environment from which it emerged - 1930s Parisian couture. In this insightful new book, Philipp Ekardt brings Benjamin into discussion with a number of important, but frequently overlooked sources. Amongst many others, these include the German fashion critic Helen Grund, who introduced him to the contemporary fashion scene; Georg Simmelâ€™s fashion sociology; Henri Focillonâ€™s morphological art history; designs by Elsa Schiaparelli and Madeleine Vionnet; films by Lâ€™Herbier and others starring Mae West; and the photography of George Hoyningen-Huene and Man Ray. In doing so, Ekardt demonstrates how fashion and silhouettes became grounded in sex; how an ideal of the elegant animation of matter was pitted against the concept of an obdurate fashion form; and how Benjaminâ€™s idea of â€˜fashionâ€™s tigerâ€™s leap into the pastâ€™ paralleled the return of 1930s couture to the depths of (fashion) history. The use of such relevant sources makes this crucial for understanding Benjamin both as a thinker and a cultural theorist.

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